If you look beyond the smiling Buddha faces of Bayon and the towers of Angkor Wat, you might stumble upon a sleepy district lost somewhere in the shadows of its more popular neighbor Siem Reap.
Battambang, surprisingly the second largest city in Cambodia, is where I finally found the bona fide flavor of the country and which doesn't adhere to rules laid down for its tourist-centric trail.
Initially, I wanted to take a boat to Battambang from Siem Reap, despite knowing that the journey time would be doubled. The water levels of the Tonle Sap River were quite low, so that made sure I stuck to the three-hour road journey. To my surprise, this town that came across as a laid-back settlement, was actually the second-largest in Cambodia and has witnessed its fair share of tumultuous events in Cambodia's long, mutinous history.
A walking distance away from the Bayon is the temple-mountain of Baphuon
which was undergoing extensive renovation.
which was undergoing extensive renovation.
The bamboo train
Apart from the past that it still retains, Battambang has also held on to its ancient bamboo train system. Extremely impatient for a ride, I left the very same day for Odambang, the village from where you can 'board' the train. The train is nothing more than a large bamboo platform mounted on train axles powered by a small go-kart engine, and as mundane as it looks, the journey atop is nothing short of exhilarating.
